Godthul, Grytviken, and Other Unpronounceables (updated with pix and video)

From Mindy, dated 5 January:

This morning we woke to tabular icebergs floating around us in Cumberland Bay (once again, things a husband loves to hear - Ed.).  We had 5 knot winds, air temp 3 degrees C, water 2.7 C.

Godthul Landing

Fur seal minefield (click to enlarge)

We had an early wake up this morning - lots of fun stuff to do.  We started with early landings at an old whaling station in Godthul Harbor (good harbor in Norwegian).  We immediately saw why they called it "good harbor" - the water was very calm and the beaches easy to land on. Here all that is left of the whaling station is a pile of oil drums and two small tanks (maybe the ruins of a boat further back).  We could not go near the ruins for safety reasons, but Pauline Carr was with us to fill us in on the history of the station.  This place was a much more basic operation, with the whale processing happening on the water, and only some of the infrastructure on shore.  The men would cut the blubber off of the whale on a flat-decked boat, and the toss the carcass off into the water.  As a result, the whole beach is littered with whale bones.  There were, of course, fur seals on the beach defending their territory against us invaders (I'm really starting to dislike these guys - Ed.).

Godthul Glacier (click to enlarge)

Those who chose not to go to the whaling station were able to take a zodiac trip to check out some of the glaciers.  They had quite an adventure as one of the zodiacs was right in front of a glacier when it calved (a chunk falls off).  They reported hearing a large cracking explosion sound, with no warning at all, and then seeing the large chunk fall off so close to them they thought it would hit them!

U Valley (click to enlarge)

Ian (click to enlarge)

After an hour or so checking out the whaling station, we hopped on zodiacs to the other side of the bay to start a hike across the Barff peninsula (yep, sometimes the snark just writes itself - Ed.). The geologists were very excited to see the contact between two different rock formations (the Cumberland formation and the Sandebugten formation, both of Cretaceous age and both turbidites).  We hiked in between the two formations up a steep slope to a beautiful u-shaped glacial valley.  Before starting the hike we again had to fend off fur seals on the beach, and one of our expedition staff said that they would do their best to find "the path of least fur"... Very funny!

Glacial Striations (click to enlarge)

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We had a leisurely hike across the glacial valley, and stopped to take pictures of beautiful rocks with nice glacial striations (scrape marks from the rocks dragged along at the bottom of the glacier).  We saw a few native birds, and one South Georgia Pintail duck.  We also saw great folds and impressive evidence of thrust faulting between the two rock formations.  We came down to another beach (the ship had sailed around to pick us up further west in the bay), and had to snake our way through yet more fur seals.  Back to the ship for a warm lunch, and then a customs lecture from an official of the South Georgia government.


(As an aside, I have to say that I was thinking of my niece Taylor today - she helped me pick out some knee pads for hiking and I was really thankful for them today.  I am able to plop down on my knees to take great photos or to climb up very steep rocky slopes and my knees don't suffer.) (Yes, we are that old, dear - Ed.)

Beat Navy! (click to enlarge)

Whaling saw (click to enlarge)

In the late afternoon we went over to Grytviken (an old science station, whaling station, and military base where Pauline and Tim Carr lived for 16 years).  Many people on ship are excited that there is a small gift shop at Grytviken, and how special that we get to visit alongside the legendary Pauline and Tim!  I'm definitely going to read their book when I get back home.  They are a delightful couple and have amazing stories to share.

Upon landing we went straight to the cemetery to see Shackleton's grave site.  We all toasted with some Scotch to honor Shackleton, and noted that today is the 91st anniversary of the day Shackleton died here in South Georgia from a heart attack.

Grytviken Church
(click to enlarge)

Church Interior
(click to enlarge)

We got to walk around Grytviken and saw the ruins of an old (large) whaling operation.  Now the location is used by scientific and military training personnel.  We got to see the church, a wooden building dedicated in 1913.  More on that later, but it was a Lutheran church (Woohoo! - Ed.) and it looks a lot like West Point's Old Cadet Chapel where my husband, Ray, and I got married more than 16 years ago.  Very lovely and another tie in to a good friend who is getting married today. Janet and Dan, congratulations!

Grytviken chain
(click to enlarge)

Grytviken (click to enlarge)

We got to send postcards from South Georgia Island, although we might return home before they come in the mail.  All in all a great day, and tomorrow will be our last day in South Georgia. :-(   But even better things await!